A Quality Bag
Many cameras today are so small you can tuck them in your pocket or through them in your purse. While it is possible to do that, it is not recommended. Cameras are precision instruments that need to be treated with care. You should take precautions to protect your camera at all times. But never fear, even in a case that small camera will still fit in your pocket. There are some great small camera cases available that will fit snug around your camera and keep it protected.

In addition to a small case, it is a good idea to have a standard camera bag as well. Camera bags have multiple compartments and are padded for protection. You will be able to store extra batteries, accessories, and even your camera manual – which you should refer to often for tips.

Take A Spare!
When you used a film camera you would throw an extra roll of film into your bag. Today, we have digital memory cards that can hold hundreds of photos. You would think that is all you need right? Well, not always. It never hurts to have a spare memory card with you.

There are a few reasons why you should carry an extra card. First of all, you should take all your photos at the highest resolution possible. Higher resolution pictures take up more space on your card, so you may run out of room earlier than you anticipate. Another good reason to take an extra card is cost efficiency. Memory cards have dropped enormously in price, so it is very inexpensive to pick up an extra to have on hand just in case. If you are on vacation you will want to have adequate space for all those great vacation photos, so why not bring an extra card with you to begin with?

In addition to a spare memory card, you should always have spare batteries. If your cameral takes conventional batteries, invest in a battery charger and two sets of rechargeable batteries. That way you will always have a charged set and you won’t spend a fortune on disposable batteries! If your camera uses a special camera battery, seriously consider picking up an extra. You would be surprised how many times you will rely on that back up battery when the first one dies!

Tripod – Small or Large
The first thing that most people think of when they hear the word tripod is a large, clumsy contraption that professionals use. Well that isn’t the case. Tripods come in a wide variety of sizes and most fold up into a compact size.  You can also find small table top tripods as well.  The advantage of having a tripod is so you can get good shots in low light, night shots, and fabulous firework photos.  In order for a camera to capture great pictures in low light it needs to be held perfectly still. A tripod allows you to accomplish this.  With a tripod you will get stunning shots of the stars at night!

These are just a few simple items that will help you make the most of your photography. The right equipment, no matter how small and every day can make the difference between a wonderful photo shoot and frustration!

East Africa is comprised of  Kenya ,Tanzania,Uganda they  have both tented camps,lodges ,camping sites with 5 star,4 star,3 star hotels for accomodation in the National Parks and major cities respectively.

When visiting these countries you will be able to do scenic safaris, Sightseeing & Aerial Photography safaris,Mountain Climbing,Camel Riding, Boat Riding,Fishing Safaris,Golfing Safaris,Sporting Safaris among other activities and hence the need to famiralize yourselve probaly with your camera,Video to avoid dissappointment when on holiday.In Tanzania you will be able to sightsee Mt kilimanjaro and Mt Meru situated in Moshi as you fly in,then visit national parks as Serengeti,Ngorongoro Crater,Lake Manyara, Sasakwa,Maji Moto, Pemba Island, Mafia Island,Mahale,Kogatende,Lobo,Grumeti(Kirawira),Fort Ikoma,Ndutu,Seronera,among others.In Kenya you will visit  ,Masai Mara, Amboseli, Samburu, Shaba, Joys Camp, Wamba,Loisaba, Desert Rose, Solio, Lake Naivasha, Tsavo West, Tsavo East, Diani (Ukunda), Malindi, Lamu Island, Kiwayu,Chyulu Hills, Rusinga Island, Mfangano Island,Mt Kenya,Lake Nakuru, Lake Bogoria, Lake Rudolf,Wasini Island and Funzi Island at South Coast, Fort Jesus in North Coast,Kitich among others.In uganda you will visit the Murchisson Falls, Kabalega Falls,Karuma falls, Fort Portal,Lake Albert and there is the home of “Gorillas”.There are  scheduled flights especially to Masai Mara,Samburu, Amboseli, Tsavo East/West,Diani,Mombasa, Malindi,Serengeti,Grumeti,Lake Manyara,Ndutu,Lobo,Sasakwa,Kilimanjaro,Mafia Islandi,Entebbe,Kampala but the rest which we have not mentioned you have the option of private charters ranging from 1 to 37 seater and this will depend on your need.

Did you know there are photographic Techniques to enable you take quality photos for your archives which you will show to your grand and great grandchildren.

PHOTOGRAPHIC TECHNIQUES

For the most part,the secret to successful photography lies in the photographers ability to master and contral several major factors-those of exposure,lightining depth of field,defination and composition.If all these factors are successfully mastered you will be producing many pleasing pictures.

EXPOSURE

The vast majority of modern cameras have built-in metering systems, which works to a high standard and greatly reduce the possibility of picture failure as a result of incorrect exposure.However , there are many occassions when an automatic metering system may let you down, for example when photographing white birds,or light coloured animals, against a dark background or, alternatively , dark birds or animals against a light sky or background.Under such lighting conditions knowledge in the use of +/- compensation is required. In the case of white/light subjects against dark backgrounds, the metering system may well be influenced to a great extend by the dark areas, thereby over exposing your main subject.This will require you to under  expose or retain  detail in the important white/light subject areas.Conversely in the case of dark subjects against light skies or backgrounds, the light areas may well over influence the metering, resulting in a silhoutte of the main subject. This problem will require you to over expose in order to obtain detail in the shadow or dark areas  of your subject.Many present day cameras have a +/- compensation facility to aid the pohotographer with these  awkward exposure situations.Alternatively the same result can be obtained by changing the ISO rating of the film being used ,although with the advent of DX coding this may not always be possible .Whichever way you choose to compensate , do remember to cancel any over or under exposure settings before moving on the next situation.

In cases where determining the correct exposure is in doubt , it is advisable to “bracket ” your exposures. If your metering system inddicates an exposure of 1/60th at f8, for example , teke one picture at this setting, then two further exposures either side of it,  so 1/60th at f5.6 and 1/60th at f11. One of the resulting exposures should produce what you require,but experience with your own equipment under these difficult conditions is the only real answer.

It should also be remembered that the exposure tolerance of transparency film is far,lower than that of negattive film.The LCD monitor on digital cameras will give an instant indication of what your pictures look like and badly exposed results can be deleted and retaken.

LIGHTING

During the course of a single day in East Africa , the lightining conditions experienced can vary tremendously . The conditions experienced in the early morning are often the most pleasing,the low angle of the sun producing wonderful saft lighting,with excellent modelling of the subject.These lightining conditions are often repeated in late afternoon with the addition of a warm glow towards sunset.From late morning to mid afternoon lighting conditions  can be very challenging, with the sunlight often directly overhead, resulting in rather flat lightining effects.

In most cases, standard portraits of East Africa birds and mammals are taken with the sunlight behind the photographer, thereby fully lighting the subject.It is always worth experimenting with other lighting arrangements, particularly side or back lighting.These lighting conditions often produce spectacular and usual pictures of even the most common bird and mammal species.

DEPTH OF FIELD.

The range of “f” stops available on each individual lens determines depth of field.In most landscape pictures, taken with wide-angle or standard lens, there is a neccessity for maximum depth of field, to render as much of the foreground, middle and far distance as sharp as possible.To achieve this results , it is necessary to select a small aperture (’f”stop) of f16 or f22. This will consequently result in a slow shutter speed, so ensure you use a tripod or some other means of support to reduce the risk of picture failure as a result of camera shake.

For individual images of birds or mammals, using longer lenses,it is often better  too select a large aperture of f5.6 or f4. This will result in  the background being thrown well out of focus, which in turn will help to isolate your main centre of interest be it bird or mammal. The use of a large aperture in these circumstances will also help to eliminate background distractions by rendering them out of focus.

Dont forget that you can check the depth of field created by any given “f” stop by using the depth of field button on your camera body.This button allows you to preview the finished image and to adjust it to your  own satisfaction prior to making any exposure.

DEFINITION

The success or fauilure of any photograph is dependent to a great extend of defination. On the whole, modern lenses are produced to a high standard and give excellent defination: any unsharp results are usually attributable to other causes.The most frequent cause is, doubtedly , due to camera shake during exposure . Another cause can be movement of the subject during exposure: this can be lessened to a great extend by the use of a fast shutter speed.

It is, however, worth remembering that in some instances movement of the subject during exposure can often result in a pleasing pictorial image, such as animals running or flocks of birds flying.

COMPOSITION

Unlike many elements of a photograph which are automatically undertaken by the camera itself , composition demands an active input from the photographer. It is therefore in your own interest to be fully conversant with the factors relating  to good composition.

Many newcomers to photography tend to produce all  of their images in a horizontal format .Cameras work equally well when turned through 90 degrees !Do remember to fully utilise the possibilities of   a vertical format.

Also remember to consider changing your viewpoint on occasions. Dont always photograph from a standing position, and explore the possibilities of photographing a subject by kneeeling or even lying on the ground. Dont always photograph from the open roof of the vechicle on game drives. Use the windows occassionally , as it can often add impact and provide better scale to the resulting pictures.

In the case of bird or mammal portraits , having decided on your format and viewpoint,you need to concentrate on the size and placement of your subject within the picture area.Generally speaking most subjects need room to move or look into the picture space, so avoid cropping your image too tightly ,unless of course it is your intention to show a close-up of the subjects head.

Try to avoid placing your subject in the centre of the picture space, instead consiously divide the space into “thirds” , both vertically and horizontally nd place your main point of interest where the lines cross.Do pay attention to the line of the horizon, particularly in landscapes.Keep it along the “thirds ” and, at all costs, keep it level.

When it comes to precise framing, zoom lenses are very usefully, allowing control over subject size and perspective. In some cases the size of the main subject can be quite small within the picture space,provided that the inclussion of more sorrounding adds information or pictorial interest of the finished image.

By utilising a range of lenses it is often possible to secure an interesting sequence of images of a bird or mammal,i.e 50mm showing the creature in its habitat, 200mm or 300mm producing portraits and 500mm to 600mm depicting the head only.  Sequences like these can often add variety to subsequent slide shows or print albums.

THE MOMENT OF EXPOSURE

Having located your subject and decided on the elements of exposure , lighting and composition, when do you press the shutter? This , of course , is very subjective , but any animal or bird potrait will be greatly improved and have a “sparkle of life” if you can make your exposure when a “highlight” is visible in the eye of your chosen subject.This is particularly important if the eye of the subject being photographed is dark and sorrounded by black fur or feather.

You should always attempt to maintain concentration when photographing any subject, remaining alert to the possibility of a yawn, scratch or wing-stretch , which may provive you with only a fleeting moment in which to capture the action.

MOVING SUBJECTS

Animals or birds ” on the move” present the photographer with some interesting problems.Supporting the camera is a major concern as the use of a tripod of monopod is usually too restricting for this type of work.Other than hand-holding the camera , a rifle stock or shoulder pod is probably the only option available . Either way you should endeavour to use the fastest shutter speed available,to minimise the risk of camera shake. Capturing any moving bird or mammal is best accomplished by “panning”.Thisn technique involves moving the camera in the same direction and at the same speed as the subject and taking the picture while the camera is still moving.Any resulting pictures will have a feeling of movement, showing the subject in sharp focus with  the background blurred due to the motion of the panning camera.

GETTING CLOSE TO BIRDS AND MAMMALS

whilst  on safari the vast majority of your photography will be undertaken from a vechicle during game drives. Many opportunities also exist for wildlife photography on foot, within the grounds of safari lodges and at specially designated areas wthin the National  Parks and Reserves.

At  many of the lodges getting close to birds is often quite easy,due to the tame nature of many species . Others, however, require some knowledge of basic ” stalking ” procedures to gain a close enough approach for worthwhile image size in the finished pictures.  A void walking straight towards your intended subject, as this is likely to cause it to fly away, whereas a slow angled approach is more likely to succed. Watch your subject during your approach and should it appear , the less likely you are to frighten your intended subject. It is also a good idea to make use of any natural cover that terrain may offer.

Many of the safari lodges in East Africa provide food and water for the local bird population and these feeding areas can offer good photographic opportunities. Even if the bird tables themselves are non-photogenic you can attempt to photograph  birds on natural perches as they make their way to and from the feeding areas.

You should ercise considerable caution when “stalking” mammal species , always keeping in mind that they are wild animals and can be extremely dangerous.Never try to atempt monkeys or baboons to come closer with food items -this is a sure way to get badly bitten.

CODE OF CONDUCT

The National Parks and Reserves of East Africa operate a strict  Code of Conduct for both drivers and visitors.A short, simple lists of dos and donts have been implemented to minimise disturbances to the birds and mammals, to lessen the impact of tourism on the enviroment and to ensure that all visitors experience safe and enjoyable safaris.You are advised to let the driver follow the Park and Reserves regulation other than pressurizing him which may result into jeopardizing his/her job and run the risk of being expelled from the Park.Also noise shouldd be at minimum, particularly when close to animals and never leave the vechicle , sit or stand on the roof, or hang precariously from the windows.Dont ddiscard any form of litter, apart from being unsightly it can cause serious injury or even kill animals if ingested.Cigarettes are best avoided during game drives, the careless or accident discarding of a match or cigarette stub can lead to uncontrollable fires, resulting in the deaths of many leaving creatures.

It is adviseable when visiting East Africa whenever you are ,please seek permission before you take the local people a photograph and be prepared for the possibility of paying for privilege.Dont even attempt to photograph Military Installations or personal it is prohibited.

With these Photographic Techinques are will be able to know how to get quality phots for both standing and moving subjects.You are also aware of the regulations for both photography when on foot, in the vechicle and what you need to do and not assume may be the Tour Quide is being unfriendly.

A private charter will give you the opportunity of scenic safaris, sightseeing & aerial photography,Helicopter Safaris of many of the East Africa geographical features as you head to your destination.There are aircrafts ranging from single engine and twin engine piston 1 to 8 seater,turbo prop 10 to 37 seater twin engine and the Citation Bravo Jet 7 seater which are availble and quotations are given instantly on request.

If you want Boat Riding Safaris, Camel Riding Safaris, Sporting Safaris , Filming Safaris,Birding Safaris, Golfing Safaris and Fishing Safaris it can be done depending with your requirements, what a deal?

Preparing  For  A Departure.

When preparing you need to put to consideration very many aspects but we will only touch on the photography Tips as we dont want you to be dissappointed after spending alot of money on asafari and you are unable to get the right results.It is always unwise to commence a holiday with new untested equipment.With digital cameras,take some pictures on each of your memory cards and check that they download correctly onto your computer.For adigital multimedia storage device,check that your memory cards copy successfully and that you can then transfer the files onto your home computer.It is adviceable at least to put one roll of film through a new camera and carry out a full test on any newly purchased lenses.Before deaparture ,make yourself familiar with all the commonly used camera and lens fuctions.Ensure you understand all the functions of any digital storage systems you will be using.Researching might seem to be invaluable and having established the flora and fauna you are likely to encounter,will aid you in selecting the most appropriate equipment to satisfy your own photographic needs.Also ensure and it is for your own good and advantage to insure all your equipments incase of damage,theft in all the countries you will be visiting.It is paramount you keep a checklist of the cameras and lens serial numbers as this will be useful in an event you need to lodge aclaim.Should equipment be stolen,it is important you record a statement with the local police of that country andd get a document with rubber stamp as the insurance will only process compensation when they have this document.

WHAT TO BRING WITH YOU.

Cameras

These days there is avariety of cameras to choose from.For really successfully safari photographers a top brand  Single Lens Reflex (SLR) camera,either digital or film,with an interchargeable lens facility is ideal.Almost all of the top models have an auto facility which is  a great asset to the wilddlife photographer.This systems can save a valuable seconds and consequently secure pictures that may have been missed with manual focus equipment.Due to the rigours and stresses that any safari places on equipment ,it is strongly adviceable you take at least two camera bodies -there will be little or no chance of getting any camera repairs undertaken outside major cities.Obviously it is beneficial to have two identical camera bodies,but if this is not feasible you should ensure that your “back up” camera accepts the same range of lenses and accessories as your principle camera body.

Compact cameras have either a fixed or zoom lens,are quick andd easy to operate and prove ideal for those visitors wanting just a photographic record.When visiting coastal area it is possible to obtain underwater compacts.This is a relatively cheap way of getting started in underwater photography.Since most of these underwater compacts are  unpressurised they are only operational to depths of just over ametre.

Most of the compact digital cameras are similar to their film equipment in size and operation but have the added advantage of instant replay,either through a small built in monitor or computer link.Images are recorded on a memory card,so pictures can be quickly sorted,saved or deleted,to make space for more photography.An increasing number of digital videos records have a stills option, and these have the added advantage of being able to record hours of action. As most digital cameras are powered by rechargeable batteries dont forget to pack chargers,leads,and plug adaptors and also a spare rechargeable battery and memory card are paramount.

Lenses

If your choice is the SLR option you will need to think about what interchangeable lenses to take with you.The wide variety of photographic opportunities that are presented to the nature photographer whilst on safari demand an equally wide range of lenses.These can be found  with the manufacturer of your camera system in an excellent range of lenses to choose from.In supplement,independent lens manufacturer will be able to offer competitive prices and maybe different focal lengths.Amedium zoom lens of between 70 and 300mm and a short zoom lens of around 28 to 135mm will cover most photographic opportunities.For the more wary mammals and the vast majority of the bird species ,longer telephoto lenses are required.These lenses are usually 400mm,500mm or 600mm and although often heavy and rather large,are essential for the more serious nature photographer and some camera manufactureres even offer image stabilizer lenses.These use a vibration gyro which detects shaking and then counter balances the movement with  amagnate and coil driven optical compensation system.These particular lenses are useful for handholding situations such as from boat or vechicle.This technology really comes into its own when using longer telephoto lenses where camera shake is greatly magnified,it makes using 500mm and 600mm lenses with teleconvertors a far more successful  option.Many of the new lenses will have auto-focus and this will offer three options.Firstly,by switching ift off,you can manually focus,secondly,using  single shot auto-focus the camera will lock on to whatever you are pointingat,but will need activating again should the subject move.Thirdly,servo-focus can be selected where the auto-focus will be constantly updating the focus point:this is ideal for moving subjects.

Macro Lenses

The inclussion of a macro lens in your equipment bag is essential if your photographic interests are in  recording close-ups of insects and flowers.The most useful macro lenses have a focal length of between 90mm and 180mm : these allow a reasonable working distance from most subjects.With experience macro lenses of around 50 mm have too short  a working distance, which can disturb some  subjects.This short working distance can also often cause lighting difficulties ,particularly when using flash.The macro facility offered by some zoom lenses can be useful, but it is rather restricted and in no way matches the quality of a true macro  lens.

Cheaper  alternatives to amacro lens include the use of extension tubes,placed between any lens andd the camera body,thereby reducing the minimum focusing distance,the use of reversing rings and the use of close-up lenses attached to the front of an existing lens.

Lens Accessories

Tele-converters increase th lens magnification by a factor of either 1.4x or 2x and some zoom lenses are designed specifically to work with them.Extension tubes and close-up filter attachments are another way of increasing magnification for macro photography.A UV or skylight filter on each lens offers  extra protection from accidental damage to the front lens element. a polarising filter is well worth taking, as it will help contral reflection and increase colour saturation. Many enhancements  that filters achieve on film can be added later to digital images through computer  programs such as photoshop.

Digital Storage

Many of the digital cameras use some form of removable storage memory cardd,such as XD, Smart Media (SD) or compact Flash (CF) .Storage capacity is measured in megabits (mb) or Gigabits (GB) .The higher the “mb” or “GB” the more images can be stored between downloads. Its a good idea to use a digital storage device to dowenload your memory cards each night.These are palm size hard  drives that vary in capacity from 20 to 100+ gigabits. Some have small colour screens for viewing.Travelling with  a laptop is another alternative where images can be viewed,stored,or even burnt onto CD or DVD .Small battery power CD and DVD writers are also available and offer probably the most secure form of backup.

RAW or JPEGy

Most digital cameras offer the option to shoot in RAW or Jpeg and this is the format that records your image, the digital equivalent of film.Jpeg is  a file format that stores digitsl photographs in a very  space efficient way.It uses compression to reduce file sizes at the expense of fine image details to do this.The level of the compression ( and thus the loss of quality) can be varied. Raw files contain all the data collected by the sensor,not  a sub-sample as is the case with Jpeg files.Raw  gives the most flexibility for post correction of the exposure and  colour and is the preffered shooting format of most professional photographers.

Noise and ISO

As in film photography,the noise level increases with higher ISO settings and shows itself in the form of pixels of the wrong colour appearing at random in dark areas. At ISO settings up to 400 very little noise is noticeable, so keep the ISO below 400 and save the higher ISO settings for when there is no alternative.

Film

There is avariety raging from negatives for prints or transparencies for projection,there is avast array of films to choose from.The speed or sensitivity to light is gauged by an ISO rating.The higher the ISO ,the more sensitive to light the film will be.However,the results will look more grainy.As light levels in East Africa are general very good,it should be possible to take advantage of the finer quality of the lower ISO films.The quality of film you require may be difficult to calculate.Try and work out a daily requirement and then double it! X-ray security checks at airports are standard procedure.However , those used for hand luggage checks should not cause any problems for film or digital. Hold luggage is aften checked with more powerful X-rays,so always take your film as hand luggage.

Camera Bags

For the protection of your camera equipment from damage,dust and rain is essential hence the need to buy a good quality camera bag.There are many  well-designed camera bags on the market  nowdays,with several more recent designs taking the form of rucksacks- these are excellent particularly if you expect to have to carry  your equipment any great distance.In selecting a suitable bag,resist the temptation to purchase one that is  too big- you will only feel obliged to fill it! with ever-tightening controls and  restrictions being imposed by airlines on the size  and weight of the cabin  baggage, the smaller the better.Waist – mounted camera and the lens pouches can help to spread the load.Stuff bags,sold in  most camping shops in varying sizes, offer an additional form of protection from dust and rain.

Camera Supports

The commonest cause of picture failure is undoubtedly lack of defination as aresult of camera shake.Ovecoming thi problem will increase your success rate enormously with the help of camera instructions manuals which give details of “How to hold your camera” and it is well worth developing a good technique in this area,with elbows locked tightly into the body.

Whenever possible we would recommend the use of a tripod. There are many lights, yet sturdy models on the market which will fit confortably into the average suitcase or roll bag.Monopods are also a good means of steadying the camera, but they do require a little practise. On most photographic safaris to East Africa the vast majority of filming will be undertaken from  a vechicle  during game drives, in most cases this precludes the use of  a tripod or monopod.The best alternative for photographing from a vechicle is to employ the use of a beabag, a very simple, but extremely effective method of camera support.Although beanbags are commercially available they are not difficult to make and all you need is  a section of cloth or canvas sewn to form a zippered bag of around 300mm by 150mm.This can be packed in your  luggage ,on arrival at your chosen destination,be filled with rice,beans or peas and then place it on the roof of the safari vechicle it quickly moulds around your camera and lens, forming a very efficient support.

Rifle stock and pistol grip supports allow freedom of movement when attempting to photograph moving subjects such as animals running or birds  in flight.if you have no option other than to hand hold your camera while shooting ,you should always ensure that your shutter speed is as great or greater than the focal lenghth of the lens in use, so for 500mm-1/60th:100mm-1?125th:200mm-1/250th:500mm-1/500th and so forth.

Once you have all as mentioned below you are set for your safari and ready for any evcentualities and are assured though we do have technical problems but you already know and have the backup.

Scenic Safari,sightseeing & aerial photography will only be enjoyable andd memorable when you get quality pictures orelse it is all awaste and hence the importance of giving you tips on what to do when perparing for a safari to avoid last minute dissappointments.

Second: Use a tripod. Low light means that the shutter must stay open longer to let in enough light to properly expose the image. The longer the shutter remains open, the more chance there is for movement, resulting in blurry photos. Using a tripod will keep your camera steady for those long exposures. You can even consider using the timer so you can be part of the photo.

Third: Raise the ISO sensitivity value. A normal ISO value is 100. You can raise that value in order to let in order to increase the shutter speed, thus having less chance of images blurring.

Fourth: Adjust the White Balance. Have you ever noticed that indoor photos do not look as “normal” like outdoor photos? That is because the lighting is different. Most cameras are left on Auto White Balance. Some of them do a better job of getting the color correct, but if you, the photographer, set the white balance, you take the guesswork out of the process. You can set the white balance to tungsten (incandescent) or florescent to get a more pleasing color output.

Fifth: Set the Scene Mode. Many newer digital cameras have numerous scene modes. If you are in a unique lighting situation, there may be a scene mode for it. For instance, the Panasonic ZS3 has scene mode settings for “party” and “candle light” among others. Using these will get much more agreeable color output.

I don’t know if you realized it as you read, but numbers 3, 4, and 5 will require you to Read the Manual (the First tip)!

Learning to take better pictures takes practice. Cameras are getting more intuitive all the time, but if you don’t know what you want before you press the shutter, that is exactly what you will get… a surprise. Sometimes it is a good surprise, but if you decide to take control of the setup, you will get consistently better output.

Continue to study and learn about how to take good pictures, and you will reap the benefits. There are more digital photography tips all over the Internet. One really good way to learn about photography is to join a photography club in your area. For more tips and hints about taking better pictures visit http://www.betterphotos123.com.

Most photos are taken when the camera is held in your hand. The hand is an unstable platform and tends to move quite a bit. Moreover new digital cameras are smaller and lighter than ever before and are much harder to keep stable. Another cause for camera movement is aggressively pushing the shutter button which in return moves the camera. It is always better to squeeze the shutter button very slowly to prevent the camera from moving. Choosing the right camera for weight, grip and shutter button sensitivity is a recommended way to minimize camera movements in the future.

As a general rule photos that are taken with slow shutter speeds or high zoom values should be taken using a more stable platform than your hand. A stable platform can be anything that is stable: a table, a shelf, a chair or a newsstand in the street. However the platform that is considered the most stable and professional is the tripod.

There are many types of tripods and they vary in size, weight, price and other features. The most important criteria when choosing a tripod is to pick one that will be easy to use. For example if you are traveling consider a tripod that is easy to carry and lightweight otherwise you will end up leaving the tripod in the hotel room while missing great photo opportunities. On the other hand if you take photos in a studio consider a heavier professional tripod.

Another important feature to consider is the tripod’s height. Many tripods can be locked at any height up to a maximum. Ideally you would want a tripod that extends to your height allowing photos to be taken from the same angle as your eyes as if they were taken by hand. Many portable tripods extend to a waist height or less. In these situations the tripod will be put on a raised platform or the photos can be taken from a low angle.

In cases where a tripod is not available but a stable platform is needed you can improvise by using many other available platforms around you. For example you can place the camera on a table when taking a photo or if you’re outdoors you can use a newsstand, a tree to lean on, a fence or anything else that is stable enough.

New real estate agents wonder if the real estate company they work for normally provides virtual tour software for them to use. Some of them do, but in other companies it is completely up to the agent. In this case agents normally create their own interactive virtual tours (or they hire someone to do it), but the agency does not get involved in this process.

In the case where the company leaves it to the agent, the best bet is to go with a professional company to make the 360 virtual tour, as nothing beats quality. There are a lot of companies that do this; you can also try hiring a professional photographer or a student to do it – it may even cost you less. If you hire someone make they know exactly what you want.

There is another possibility – if you are good at it, or if you think you might like it, you can try designing your own interactive virtual tour. But how can you create a 360 virtual tour? Is it difficult? What camera should you use? And what software do you need?

For starters, a sequence of still photos will do. It is pretty easy and kind of basic, but it will do the job. All you need to do is work with a basic photo editor. Apart from this you can try uploading some videos. Making some video clips with a digital camera is pretty easy. Once again, you will need basic video editing software. If you do not have such software you can either buy it or download it from the internet.

But nothing will work quite like a 360 virtual tour. This basically consists of a number of photos that are stitched together in order to look like you are inside the room you are touring. In order to create such an interactive virtual tour you will need a camera, a tripod and stitching software. If you are new to this it will take some time, but if you can do it then it will definitely be worth it.

Have in mind there are a few things you need to consider when making an interactive virtual tour. You definitely need to use the tripod as it allows the camera to have stability (otherwise the photos could not be stitched together). You also have to make sure that you take every picture after moving the camera at an angle of about 50 degrees. As well as that remember that you may not be very good at first but if you are patient enough the results will be great.

360 virtual tours may seem like the type of things that require a lot of money but it is not actually so. If you cannot afford to pay for such a tour you can easily make it yourself. Digital cameras are not very expensive; as for the stitching application, you can download it for free from the internet. All you need to do is know exactly what you want and invest a little time in creating the virtual tour you want.

Cameras & Museums can be a volatile subject, especially when discussed with employees of the museum. Some museums have no problem with you bringing your photography equipment in, whereas others have a strict no camera policy. The situation is even more serious when you attempt to bring a tripod with you. Many of these museums will have a large detailed sign in the lobby that stipulates the ins and outs of their policy. If the museum does not allow cameras, you will most likely be asked to deposit your photography equipment at the coat check.

Because of the intensive policies and the likelihood that they encounter individuals taking pictures on a daily basis, the personnel might act slightly hostile and condescending in their questioning. Keep in mind that the employees are not police officers and you are not obligated to answer their questions. The only legal course of action they can take is to have you removed from the premises for trespassing. Hopefully it will not come to this conclusion, but it can be avoided by generally explaining your intention of using the photos for private enjoyment.

Part of the concern of the museums is that flash photography will damage the art. Their other concern about cameras & museums, is that your intentions may be to publish your photos and they do not want to risk losing any sort of financial profit from the photographs. When you talk to a museum employee, do your best to be friendly and non-confrontational.  It’s a lot more difficult to be hostile or rude to someone if they are nice and have a smile on their face.

It would not be lying to say you originally intended to take private photos then decided to sell them after the fact. But if you want to avoid any sort of scenario regarding cameras & museum confrontation, take the time to do the research of the museum’s policies. You can always make a phone call and ask for special authorization and if they have a nice public relations division, they may actually grant it to you. Also remember to look online and search for vouchers, because many museums offer vouchers on the internet.